Sure, some people can surf waves. Some people can even surf bigger waves. But can they do it with panache?
Here, a surfer with more life experience than some rides classic nose style on the front of his board on a good swell day at Honolua Bay, Maui. If he is good, and lucky, he will be able to get five, and maybe even ten, toes over the nose–the origin of the phrases “hang five” and “hang ten.”
See more from this photo session here.